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Low cost spay/neuter information

How to bottle feed a kitten

Why you shouldn't declaw your cat

What Vet clinics are open 24 hours?

Dog rescue information

Litter Box Troubles

Why Spay/Neuter?

Why my cat should remain indoor

My cat is destroying my furniture

Introducing my cat to new pets



Low Cost Spay/Neuter information

The Fox Valley Animal Welfare League is a not for profit organization that is committed to preventing pet over population, but providing low cost spay/neuter programs along with low cost health care and vaccines.


Why shouldn't I have my cat declawed?

Declawing is actually a surgical amputation of the last bone of the cat's toes. It is illegal or considered to be extremely inhumane in many European countries. Aside from being very painful, declawing can lead to life long problems for Fluffy. She may stop using the litter box because of tenderness and phantom pain in the stumps.

She may become a biter in the absence of her primary form of defense. Fluffy may experience a personality change and become more withdrawn because she feels vulnerable. Because she can't anchor her claws in a scratching post, she cannot get a good stretch of her leg and back muscles.

There is no good reason to declaw your cat. With a little patience, cats with claws can be trained to scratch in an appropriate place. A sturdy scratching post that is high enough and has a broad base so it won't tip is great for Fluffy. Plastic glue on nail caps are available from your vet or a pet store. They completely prevent any damage a cat may cause by clawing.

For more information about declawing, go to


Why doesn't my cat use the litter box anymore?

Fluffy may have a urinary tract infection (UTI) which causes painful urination. She may associate the pain with the litter box and try to find a less painful place to "go". The first step in solving inappropriate elimination problems is to take the cat to a vet to rule out medical problems. If the vet says Fluffy is healthy, the problem may then be something about the litter box itself.

It could be cleanliness - the litter should be scooped at least twice a day, and the litter box itself cleaned monthly if you're using scoop able litter and weekly if you're using traditional clay litter.

It could be location - cats prefer a relatively quiet place out of busy traffic areas. For kittens and senior cats, there should be a litter box on each level of your house.

It could be the litter itself- most cats prefer the scoopable sand type litter without scents. This is especially true for front declawed cats whose paws may be sensitive.

It could be there is an insufficient number litter boxes - the rule of thumb is one litter box per cat plus one more.

For more information on inappropriate elimination problems, go to the articles tab at


Why do I have to have my cat spayed/neutered?

•  Spayed/neutered cats live longer and are healthier. The possibility of ovarian and uterine cancer is eliminated in female cats and the possibility of testicular cancer and prostate disease is eliminated in the males.

•  The need to “mark” territory by spraying (urinating on a vertical surface) is eliminated.

•  The urge to roam and get into fights over potential mates or territory is eliminated.

•  Spayed/neutered cats tend to be more calm and friendly, and make better companions when they’re not driven by hormones.

•  Millions of unwanted and homeless kittens and cats are euthanized in the United States every year. By spaying/neutering your cat, you are helping to control the tremendous overpopulation.

Contrary to popular opinion, spayed/neutered cats do not automatically become overweight. With a sensible feeding program and playful exercise, Fluffy and Felix will maintain their youthful figures.

For more information about spaying/neutering, go to


Why should I keep my cat indoors?

Indoor cats live longer, healthier, and some would say happier lives. The outdoors is fraught with dangers for Fluffy. Among the perils for cats outdoors are:

•  Predators - coyotes, unleashed dogs, raccoons, and other wild animals in the urban setting can catch and kill your cat

•  Disease and parasites - the dangers range from ringworm, to coccidia and giardia, to FIV and FeLV. Expensive vet bills may be incurred in getting Fluffy back to good health.

•  Traffic - cars kill cats.

•  People - some children, and even adults, take pleasure in teasing or torturing cats. Some people catch outdoor cats and sell them to laboratories for animal testing.

Fluffy and Felix can live perfectly happy lives indoors. Given a few high perches in the house, a place to sit and watch the birds, a sturdy scratching post, and daily play sessions, your cat will be living the life of Riley.

For more information, go to


How do I keep my cat from clawing the furniture?

Clawing is a natural activity for a cat. Fluffy claws to keep her nails in good condition, to use the scent of her paws to mark territory, and to get a good stretch to strengthen and tone her back and leg muscles. Clawing is instinctual for cats and the activity cannot be trained out of them. However, training cats to claw in appropriate places is relatively easy.

A two phase approach is recommended. Phase one is to provide an acceptable place for Fluffy or Felix to claw. A sturdy, sisal wrapped scratching post high enough for the cat to reach up most of her body length and with a base broad enough so it won’t tip it over is ideal. For the cat who prefers horizontal scratching, a box with edge on corrugated cardboard is a good solution. Rub the scratching surface with a little catnip and praise Fluffy when she uses it.

The second phase is to make the living room couch, or other unacceptable clawing target, unattractive to Fluffy. Putting double sided tape or Sticky Paws on the surface works quite well. Spraying the surface with a citrus based repellent may also work. When the cat claws an unacceptable object, tell her “no” and take her to the acceptable scratching place. Put her paws on the scratching post and praise her.

For more information, go to


How do I introduce my new cat to my other pets?

Slow and easy is the way to go. For the first few days to a week after you bring your new cat or kitten home, keep her in a sanctuary room. It can be a bathroom, bedroom, or other room where you can keep the door closed. Give Fluffy her litter box, food, water, bedding, and toys and let her get used to her new surroundings before asking her to take on the entire house and family. Visit her often and play with her.

Slowly begin to introduce other furkids in the family by switching Fluffy’s bedding with the other pet’s, or by rubbing each with a small towel or cloth and giving it to the other to smell. Then leave the door to the sanctuary room open just a crack so the pets can “visit” each other without having full physical contact. When you sense that the introductions are going well, open the door to the sanctuary room and let Fluffy come out as she wishes. Supervise the physical introductions until you are satisfied that everyone is getting along. It’s perfectly normal for Fluffy to growl or hiss at her new companions. Don’t be concerned unless you see fur flying.

For more information, go to


Bottle feed a kitten

  1. Purchase kitten milk replacement formula (KMR) and supplies such as syringes and bottles at a local pet food store.
  2. Sterilize the syringes and warm milk slightly, according to the instructions on the package
  3. Mix the formula immediately before offering to the kitten to ensure the best quality
  4. Measure the appropriate feeding amount according to the weight of the kitten. Kittens 1 to 3 weeks old may digest up to two tablespoons for every 4 ounces (113g) of body weight every 2 to 3 hours.
  5. Feed the kitten. Do this by sitting in the chair with a towel folded on your lap. Position the kitten similarly to the way he would nurse from his mother, with his head elevated and stomach resting.
  6. Encourage and stimulate burping by holding the kitten with his back resting against your body and gently rubbing his stomach. In the queen and kitten relationship, the mother will groom the kitten to help him pass wind and stools. Don't be surprised by either result – it's a good sign!

Video Link to Bottle Feeding


Dog Rescue Information

We work closely with Rover Rescue in Aurora. Rover Rescue is an all-volunteer group dedicated to giving homeless dogs a happy future. Our objective is to provide the best possible care and placement of dogs, through quality fostering, proper vetting and education to reach our goal. Our goal is to rescue as many dogs from shelters and abusive homes as humanly possible, evaluate them, and place them in qualified adoptive homes.


Emergency Vet Hospitals

VCA Aurora

Emergency Vet Service of St. Charles

VCA Arboretum View Animal Hospital



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